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Johan Reyneke with some mature horn manure!
Crumbly, moist, living soil
Burying cow manure in cow horns
 biodynamic winesWe're not sure exactly how and why biodynamics works so well, but when combined with great winemaking, the results can be sublime. After all, the most expensive wine in the world, Romanée-Conti, is biodynamic! Biodynamic viticulture is a stage further than organic. It is natural, not only because no chemicals are used, but it also takes into account the forces of nature - the seasons, the phases of the moon and planetary constellations. Just as the moon gives us the tides, the moon can influence moisture content in the vine and the soil, creating a biodynamic calendar which gives the best times to plant, prune and prepare the soil. Although we speak of biodynamics as if it is relatively new (much is based on Rudolf Steiner's work in the early 1900s), it seems to me that what is happening is that vinegrowers are reconnecting with the soil and with nature just as they used to thousands of years ago. I have found that wines from vineyards that have been biodynamic for a number of years and are well made, have a vibrancy and a minerality about them - as if the soil is alive and the wine is alive too. Johan Reyneke is one of the only biodynamic winegrowers in South Africa. A visit to his vineyard provides powerful proof - the homeopathic quantities of horn manure that he applies to the soil (we're talking just 60-120 grammes for a hectare of vines) has given moist, crumbly soils that you can plunge your hand into. This contrasts sharply with a neighbouring 'conventional' vineyard where the surface soil is compacted, hard, impenetrable and devoid of life. It is one of the only places I can remember where the grapes actually tasted of the wine. In fact they were so good that his dog was eating them straight off the vine!
As with wine made from organically-grown grapes, some biodynamic wines are certified (the most popular body is Demeter), others follow some or all of the principles. In summary, biodynamic viticulture is an holistic approach whose main aim is to nurture the soil and the life within it. By increasing the humus content and microbial life of the soil, the vines roots will get the nourishment they need, above ground the vine will be healthier and the yeasts that grow on the grapeskins will reflect the true character of the vineyard site. This results in wines that have more individuality, some would also say purity of flavour and balance. Certain natural preparations are used in homeopathic quantities such as cow manure matured in horns to increase bacterial activity in the soil, silica which is sprayed on the leaves and acts like millions of tiny mirrors to enhance the sunlight and other preparations such as nettle tea, naturally rich in sulphur. Once the vines are back in balance growers report that they are then less prone to disease but this process can take several years. Vineyard treatments, ploughing, pruning etc are carried out according to nature's calendar. Gravitational forces, such as the pull of the moon and where the earth is in relation to the sun and other planets, can have an effect on the vine's sap and some say it is like the earth is breathing in and out. Farming in accordance with the planets is not a new theory! It is only in the last few decades that mechanisation and technology have started to replace the age-old knowledge. You don't have to be biodynamic to make good wine, but biodynamics will help to bring out the best, most authentic wine from a given site. Useful Links:
(Ethical Fine Wines cannot be responsible for the content of external sites) Further reading on Biodynamics:
(Ethical Fine Wines cannot be responsible for the content of external sites) wines of the month
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